Felgood Customs: HPI-E10

The beginning stages of this E10 Countersteer Kit.

This project is still on going and need more tweaking to get the kit to swing out smoothly and controllable. I thought I'd start the tutorial anyways so here it is:

Tools:

-hacksaw

-Dremel tool w/ cutting wheel, grinding bit, & micro drill bit.

-hammer

-4 in one screwdriver

-punch tool

Materials:

-hpi alum. propellar shaft or Pro4 alum. prop. shaft

-Pro4 Hara prop. shaft ball end. or jumbo paper clips (Pro4 Hara CF shaft is a discontinued item so it may be difficult to find)

-hpi motor bearing #B006 (see link below to purchase)
-Yokomo 2.0 overdrive diff. set (see link below to purchase)

-sleeve bearing (stock E10 sleeve bearing)

- a 4 set turnbuckles

-1 hpi E10 cup joint (from the HPI Universal Joint option)

-bearings

1. This can be done in 2 ways. One way is by simply drilling a hole directly accross near end of the rear diff side of the propellar shaft( the same circumference as a jumbo paper clip). Then cut a piece of the jumbo paper clip to the exact length of the stock prop shaft's end on the rear diff side and insert it through the alum. shaft.

The other way is like the pic shown. The ball end on this one came from a Pro4 Hara edition carbon fiber shaft. I have a feeling that the Pro4 shafts will fit with this without cutting the shaft. take the ball end and measure then cut to right length and use Dremel w/ micro drill bit to drill through diameter of the rod. Now use the cold punch to punch out the pins on the Hara ball ends. There are 2 of them - you'll only need 1. When done with the drilling, place the pins to hold the ball end and check for tight fit.

*Update: You can also custom fit the shaft by shaving off the inside of the stock E10 Spur Gear shaft that the other end of the shaft connects to.

2. Notice the cup joint? yep, its the cup joint that comes with either the hpi universal kit, front oneway diff, or spool diff. This cup joint is perfect for the Yokomo overdrive bevel gear. Place cup join on hard flat surface and take the hpi #b006 motor bearing and slide it through the cup joint's shaft. If it doesnt slide easy - take a deep socket with the same circumference as the cup joint and use a hammer to pound the deep socket to drive the bearing down.

Click links below to purchase part:

eBay.com

Amazon.com

3. When the motor bearing is flushed and fitted good, place the stock bearing sleeve and place whole unit into the rear diff. bearing.

4. See how everything fits perfectly. Now place the Yokomo bevel gear on the cup joint shaft and you can either use some kind of glue or even better screw it to shaft like how it suppose to be to secure it( i didnt on mines)

5. Here's a pic of the whole rear Yokomo overdrive 2.0 diff in the E10 housing. The other bearing will be held in place by the Yokomo bevel gear. Put some grease on the gears and then place the other half of the diff case assembly carefully and test it by rotating the wheels to see if there any binding. Once this is completed, test everything first and then double check again. Make sure that there is a good amount of pressure on the prop shaft against the rear diff. (this is very critical because this is what holds the bevel gear and bearings in place.

Click links below to purchase part:
Radshape RC

RC-Race-And-Drift-Japan

RC Mart

6. After all the testing and once the shaft and rear diff are in order work on the steering assembly. Pictured are all the mods I had to do to get maximum angles. Notice the custom adj. arms. This is needed for max negative camber, however this is not enough. I will be experimenting with the Yeah Racing options to get max camber when I get the parts. For now this will have to do...

* keep checking in here as this project is on going and I am trying to refine everything and work all the kinks out. If you have any questions; you can reach me on my email at felgood86@gmail.com. I will post more pics and a video soon...

Thanks for your time.

Felgood aka AE1086

UPDATE

This is the latest pic of my E10-CSD chassis. Take note of the alum. Hot Racing shock towers and the top bar brace that I've added. I'll be getting a Yokomo 1.5 OD diff. gear soon to see if this will fix the whip happy tail... I will also be getting the Yeah Racing alum. adj. arms soon to see how it is. As always $$$ is tight so progress is slow on this one. So keep checking in or just email me for questions at felgood86@gmail.com or hit me up on facebook.

Thanks for stopping by...

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